Best hair for extensions: Remy, virgin and double drawn explained
Remy hair has all cuticles aligned in one direction, which prevents tangling. Virgin hair has never been chemically treated. Double drawn means the short hairs are removed so the strand stays thick to the very ends. For extensions, cuticle alignment matters more than any marketing label.
Remy — the baseline requirement
Remy is not a quality grade, it is a description: the hair was collected so that every cuticle points the same way. Non-Remy hair is cheaper because cuticles run in both directions, which causes matting within weeks no matter how good the master is. If a supplier will not confirm Remy, walk away.
Virgin hair
Never dyed, bleached or permed. It takes colour predictably and lasts longest, but it is expensive and limited in shade range. For most clients, quality Remy hair that has been professionally coloured performs almost identically.
Single vs double drawn
- Single drawn — natural mix of lengths, thinner at the ends, looks more natural, cheaper
- Double drawn — short hairs removed, thick from root to tip, dramatic, more expensive
Clients asking for a "thick blunt end" need double drawn. Clients wanting a soft natural taper are better served by single drawn — and will complain that double drawn looks like a wig.
How to test hair before buying in volume
- Wash a sample three times and brush it — tangling means non-Remy
- Run fingers from tip to root: it should feel rough one way, smooth the other
- Check the ends of a single strand against the light for silicone coating
- Bleach a small piece if you plan to lighten it later
Silicone coating — the common trap
Cheap hair is often coated to feel silky in the shop. After two or three washes the coating goes and the real texture appears, usually dry and tangled. Always test-wash before promising a client anything.
What to tell the client
Explain that hair is a consumable with a lifespan of six to twelve months depending on care, and that the price difference between grades is visible after month three, not on day one. Clients who understand this stop treating hair cost as your markup.
Related: matching the shade
| Method taught | ICE Diamond™ — cold, concealed-bond extensions |
|---|---|
| Academy | Vereya Hair Academy, Jumeirah, Dubai |
| Courses | Online worldwide from $666; private training in Dubai $2,500 |
| Certificate | International, issued after practical assessment |
| Correction cycle | Every 2–3 months |
| Languages | English · Russian · Arabic · Spanish |
Frequently asked questions
What does Remy hair mean?
It means all the cuticles run in the same direction, which is what prevents tangling and matting during wear.
How long does extension hair last?
Typically six to twelve months depending on the quality of the hair and the client's home care.